Theron Dean Shelter

Theron Dean Shelter stands at 3,320 feet on General Stark Mountain in Division VIII of the Long Trail, one of the more remote and dramatic sections of the trail in the central Green Mountains. Built in 1966 by the Long Trail Patrol for the GMC’s New York Section, the shelter is the second to bear the name of Theron Skidmore Dean — insurance man, GMC secretary, lantern-slide lecturer, trail builder, and one of the indispensable behind-the-scenes figures of the Long Trail’s first generation. His name appears on a shelter, a panoramic viewpoint, and a cave on this part of the ridge. It appears also on an old crosscut saw that turned up in a Burlington antique store a century after he first swung it on the Monroe Skyline.

The current shelter has stood since 1966 in continuous use. It has been significantly restored. It carries a plaque endowing its future maintenance in memory of Elisha Hall, a Middlebury College alumna who loved Vermont and died young. The story of Theron Dean Shelter is really two stories — the man and the mountain — joined by everything that happens to a shelter over nearly sixty years of use.

Theron Skidmore Dean (1877–1946)

Theron Skidmore Dean was born on January 12, 1877, in LaGrange, New York, in Dutchess County — a fact his Long Trail News obituary would later emphasize, since Dean spent his life promoting Vermont to outsiders even while becoming as essential to the Green Mountain Club as anyone born in the state. The son of Cromline and Jane Skidmore Dean, he grew up in Dutchess County, graduated from Cornell University, and became an insurance underwriter. In 1911, the Mutual Benefit Life Insurance Company named him general agent for Vermont. He moved to Burlington, thereby missing the founding of the Green Mountain Club — held in January 1910 — by one year.

The timing was unfortunate but not fatal to his role. Dean’s wife Henrietta, a Swarthmore College alumna also from New York, joined him in Vermont. The family — which included their children Alice, born in 1908, and Burtis, born in 1911 — became outdoor enthusiasts and GMC members. Dean’s own photographs tell the story of what the family took on: Burtis snowshoeing at age three, young Alice on Vermont mountain summits, Alice and her husband spending their wedding trip on the Long Trail.

Although he never held the title of founder, Theron Dean was, within a few years of his arrival, one of the most indispensable members of the club. The very first edition of the Long Trail Guide Book, published in 1917, lists him in two separate roles: Treasurer, and Chair of the Trails and Shelters Committee, the latter a position he held for sixteen years. As corresponding secretary he composed more than three hundred letters in a single three-month period — answering inquiries, giving practical advice ("for those of your party who have not hiked before, I would suggest large sized boots, as the feet swell in hiking"), and serving as what one later account called "an effective GMC ambassador." His dispatches were written from his insurance office in the Masonic Lodge in Burlington, but they brought the Long Trail to hundreds of people who had never heard of it.

His most distinctive contribution to early GMC publicity was a series of illustrated lantern slide lectures he gave to civic groups across Vermont and New England. He addressed the Vermont Dairy Operators Association, Norwich University, the Rotary Club of St. Albans, Bethany Church in Montpelier, the Vermont Club of New Haven, and the Brooklyn Academy of Arts and Sciences, where he spoke to an audience of five hundred. The lectures combined photographs — many of them Dean’s own, hand-tinted glass slides — with stories of the Long Trail and the Green Mountains. One listener praised the "balance of adventure, scenery, and history." Another spoke of Dean’s "magnetic enthusiasm." A later historian, Tom Slayton, rightly credited the lectures with creating an early hiking boom in Vermont. Dean apologized in letters for having to charge for transportation and lodging, but he charged.

He was also Will Monroe’s man on the ground. Professor Monroe — the New York botanist and hiker who came to Vermont in 1914 and became the driving force behind the Monroe Skyline — needed a reliable Vermont ally. Dean was that ally. When Monroe wanted the Long Trail moved off the lowland firefighting roads where the state forestry department had put it and onto the scenic high ridges, Dean navigated the political difficulties. He warned Monroe that a "severe arraignment" of State Forester Austin F. Hawes might not be taken kindly in Vermont, and that Hawes and GMC President Mortimer Proctor were both Yale men who might rally together. Two days later he added, characteristically: "Don’t think for a minute that we are all Forestry color here in Burlington. There are a few pig-headed male bipeds of us that want scenic trails." At the next annual meeting the GMC voted that its trails were to be "high, scenic trails," with grade a secondary consideration. Monroe, with Dean’s help, had won the day.

Dean also helped Monroe by revising the club’s constitution to allow the New York Section — formed in 1916, when there were already over a hundred GMC members in New York City — explaining diplomatically that the founders of 1910 could not have foreseen such a development. For fifteen years, Dean later recalled, his principal weekend recreation had been trail work.

He was, in short, the kind of person organizations run on: not the visionary or the figurehead but the tireless correspondent who answers three hundred letters in a summer, chairs the trails committee for sixteen years, smooths the political difficulties that could have derailed the best idea anyone had, and shows up to help swing a crosscut saw on the weekends. He died in Burlington on June 6, 1946, after several years of failing health. He was sixty-nine years old.

A century after his trail work, a Burlington antique store owner found a vintage crosscut saw in a hand-crafted wooden case and tagged the GMC on an Instagram photo of it. Carved into the wood of the case was a date and name: Sat July 24-26, Theron S. Dean, Burlington. GMC Executive Director Mike DeBonis acquired the saw for seventy-five dollars — a good discount from the store owner, who recognized it was important to save. It is now on display at the GMC Visitor Center in Waterbury Center.

The First Theron Dean Lodge (1924–circa 1963)

The shelter that first bore Dean’s name was built in 1924, during the years of the Monroe Skyline’s construction, on General Stark Mountain in what was then Division VIII of the Long Trail. Walter Collins O’Kane, in his 1926 guidebook Trails and Summits of the Green Mountains, described the approach from the south:

"Continuing north along the ridge the Trail then drops rapidly in the midst of beautiful cliffs and arrives at Theron Dean Lodge, a shelter of Swiss type with bunks for four. Unfortunately, the water supply near this shelter fails in dry weather. In front of the lodge there is an outlook which commands a splendid view over the mountains to the north."

The 1926 Long Trail News photograph reproduced in LTN Summer 2018 shows what "Swiss type" meant: a squat, solid log structure with a stone foundation, horizontal log walls, and a steeply pitched roof — closer in character to an Alpine hut than to the open-front lean-tos that the GMC would come to prefer. The location on General Stark Mountain, between Glen Ellen Lodge to the south and Birch Glen Camp to the north, made it useful in a section of trail with otherwise sparse shelter.

O’Kane’s account places the lodge just below Dean Panorama — a viewpoint looking north — and just above the passage through Dean Cave, a short underground passage through a cliff that the trail uses to descend the steep north face of the mountain before reaching Stark’s Wall, the precipitous descent that drops toward Appalachian Gap. All three features — the panorama, the cave, and the shelter — bore Dean’s name by the mid-1920s, a recognition of the long trail work he had done on this section of the Monroe Skyline.

The earliest guidebooks describe the shelter with "stove and bunks" and note that "water is uncertain in dry weather" — a characteristic that would be repeated verbatim in edition after edition, right up to the present shelter. By the 1947 guidebook the entry had been downgraded to "poor condition," and the distance notation had been adjusted slightly from that given in earlier editions. The 1951 edition said the shelter "can be used in an emergency," which in guidebook language is a polite way of saying it is not reliable. By the 15th edition (1956), the shelter appeared in the summary table as "Abandoned Theron Dean Shelter." The 17th edition (1963) confirmed the abandonment. The 18th edition (1966) still listed the location — now described as "Theron Dean Shelter (not maintained)" at mile 151.5, Dean Panorama, Dean Cave — the same year the Long Trail Patrol built an entirely new shelter a short distance away.

The Second Theron Dean Shelter (1966)

The replacement shelter was built in the summer of 1966 by the Long Trail Patrol — the GMC’s paid trail crew, directed for decades by Roy Buchanan — for the New York Section of the club. The connection to the New York Section made sense: Theron Dean himself had been the man who convinced the club to allow a New York Section in 1916, and the section had been active in the construction and maintenance of this part of the trail.

Roy Buchanan described the construction in the Long Trail News for August 1966. The crew worked for several weeks on the project. In the third week:

"The two men started work on this shelter. There is timber enough in the area so that it can be built with logs. It’s an open front which will sleep 6 persons if not packed in like sardines. Boards for the roof, floor and bunks have been brought in by the Ellen ski lifts. Thanks to them for that help. It took a week to cut and peel 18 logs and haul them to the site. The crew reported that they have fed innumerable black flies and no-see-ums."

The Ellen ski lifts — part of the Mad River Glen ski area, whose upper terminal, Stark’s Nest, stands just 0.7 miles north of the shelter — provided the only practical means of getting dimensional lumber to this elevation without a helicopter. The cooperation of the ski area with the Long Trail Patrol was a recurring feature of this section of trail. The new shelter was positioned at mile 14.5 of the Division VIII section (measured from Cooley Glen Shelter), at 3,320 feet elevation, essentially at the same location as the original lodge but in the open-front Adirondack style that by the 1960s had become the GMC’s standard design.

From the first edition in which it appeared (the 18th, 1966, covering both the old "not maintained" shelter and the new one), the guidebook described it consistently: a small log shelter with bunks for four to six, a small spring to the west that is unreliable in dry seasons, and a short alternate route leading to Dean Panorama and then down through Dean Cave — the same geological features that had been named for Theron Dean forty years before.

The prohibition on wood fires at this shelter appears in all editions through the present day, an early recognition that the sub-alpine vegetation at this elevation cannot sustain regular campfire use.

The Mountain and Its Features

The landscape around Theron Dean Shelter is among the most distinctive on the central Long Trail. The shelter sits in a hollow below the crest of General Stark Mountain, a summit named for the Revolutionary War general John Stark. The highest point of General Stark Mountain — 3,662 feet — lies a mile to the north of the shelter, and Stark’s Nest, the upper terminal of the Mad River Glen chair lift at 3,644 feet, is even closer.

From the shelter, a short alternate route leads to Dean Panorama, a north-facing viewpoint with an expansive outlook over the mountains of north-central Vermont. The alternate route then drops to Dean Cave — a short underground passage through a cliff that requires hikers to stoop or crawl for a short distance before emerging on the main trail. This cave passage is one of the more unusual features on the Long Trail, and its presence gives the approach to Stark’s Wall from the south a peculiar, theatrical quality: the trail goes underground, reemerges, and then immediately begins the steep, rocky descent that the name Stark’s Wall accurately announces.

To the north of the shelter, Champlain Panorama offers views west toward Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks. The proximity of the Mad River Glen ski terrain — its trails, lift stations, and groomed cross-country network — means that in winter this section of the Long Trail sees ski touring traffic in addition to snowshoers, and portions of the route coincide with ski trails. In summer, the area is remote enough that the shelter is primarily reached from either Appalachian Gap (VT 17, 3.6 miles south) or from the north via the longer approach from Birch Glen Camp (3.9 miles).

Maintenance History

By 1977, the Long Trail Patrol noted plans to construct or repair the outhouse at Theron Dean Shelter, along with several other shelters in the Birch Glen area and on the northern trail. The shelter continued in use through the 1980s and 1990s with routine maintenance, its small spring to the west remaining the only water source and the prohibition on fires the only significant restriction.

The first major structural work came in 2008, when a helicopter materials drop on June 6–8 of that year brought logs and lumber to Theron Dean Shelter as part of a multi-site resupply that also served Bamforth Ridge Shelter and the major reconstruction of Montclair Glen Lodge. The Montpelier Section’s Trail Talk newsletter described the operation in detail: thirty-two helicopter loads total across all sites, with Theron Dean Shelter’s needs described as requiring "some major repairs, led by a GMC staff member." Long Trail Patrol members Tony Stoltzfus and Patrick Matteau then spent nearly a month at the site carrying out the restoration — replacing lower log courses, sills, and the roof, and repairing the stone foundation. The rebuilt shelter was complete by the fall of 2009.

The Elisha Hall Endowment

On October 8, 2009, a group of hikers gathered at the base of Stark Mountain at the Mad River Glen ski area and rode the double chair to the top. Leading the group was Geordie Hall, whose generosity was the reason for the occasion.

They descended from the ski area to the Long Trail and hiked to Theron Dean Shelter, noting the fall rains and the mud that is characteristic of the trail in this season. As the shelter came into view, they were greeted by Stoltzfus and Matteau, who had spent the better part of the previous month rebuilding it. Shawn Keeley, GMC’s Director of Development, had brought a wooden plaque inscribed with Elisha and Geordie’s names, and he attached it to the shelter. A toast to the four winds was made in celebration of Elisha Hall’s life. LTN contributor Amy Tatko, a close friend of Elisha Hall’s, was present and later wrote the account of the occasion for the spring 2010 issue of Long Trail News.

The plaque now mounted inside the shelter reads:

Future maintenance of Theron Dean Shelter has been endowed in memory of Elisha Hall by her father Geordie Hall. October 1, 2007.

Elisha Hall died in a motorcycle crash on September 20, 2001, shortly before her thirty-third birthday. An alumna of Middlebury College, she had a love of nature and a deep enjoyment of Vermont that had become part of her life through her family’s connection to the Mad River Valley. They had traveled from Maryland and later from Massachusetts to ski at Mad River Glen, hike the Long Trail, and spend time at her grandparents’ house in Waitsfield. Vermont and the Long Trail were, as Tatko wrote, "very special places for Elisha."

The endowment was made two years before the dedication ceremony at the shelter — the plaque is dated October 1, 2007 — with the shelter ceremony following after the major restoration was complete. The endowment provides for the ongoing maintenance of the shelter through the GMC’s shelter endowment program.

In Verse and in Use

A poem about overnight shelters along the Long Trail, published in the Long Trail News in Summer 2016, was titled "Amulets Along Vermont’s Long Trail" and composed by Dawn "TaosDawn" Chandler, a 2015 Long Trail thru-hiker. Theron Dean Shelter appeared alongside Taylor Lodge, Taft Lodge, Whiteface Shelter, Tillotson Camp, Montclair Glen Lodge, and Corliss Camp — the Long Trail’s shelter culture distilled into imagery of early risers packing in the dark, headlamp beams, and the particular weight of a pack lifted from a shelter floor at dawn. The poem’s publication, alongside photographs of the shelters it named, placed Theron Dean in a chain of places that meant something to hikers beyond their structural description.

The Burlington Section’s 1997 LTN cover story on "Mountain Saints" named Theron Dean Shelter as one of the trail’s monuments to an earlier generation: "Their names ring out along the length of the Long Trail as shelter names, lookouts, and side trails — Congdon Shelter, Cooper Lodge, Theron Dean Shelter (early Long Trail promoter)…" The shelter had by then been in use for thirty years — long enough to have moved from a construction report to a landmark.

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